When I spent the afternoon with the Grommets down in San Clemente I saw something I don’t see all the time when I am surfing. They yelled and laughed and romped around in the water enjoying every minute of the beach, the waves, friendship and fun. They were shouting at people in the water like they were at a hockey game. I originally went to the beach to capture the soul and drive of the mini athletes and try to photograph them as little heroes. What I ended up with is the pure joy of surfing and fun. I mixed the two shots together because as in life there is never one side to anything always everything is yin and yang. They are serious and skilled but most of all they represent something greater that is so important to remember. They represent how simply happiness and joy can be achieved. The real reason I love to surf is because I get to be a kid when I am out there. Nothing matters accept that moment and catching a wave. I love the feeling of conquering the waves and making a wave my own. I feel that way about photography to but not as much as in the beginning because I get paid for it now. The search for an image is like the chase of a good ride accept “no one is ever going to pay me to surf”. When you get that good ride no matter how you feel you have all this power to chase another. This shoot just makes me want to shoot some more. SHOUT OUT!!: Thanks to all the parents and the kids in San Clemente for spending time with me and allowing me to see a bit of your world. I made two box’s of prints for them that I really hope they will love.
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